inkjet printing on fabric recommendations and aged print comparisons.
Pigmented inkjet ink prints on the left of each set, dye-based on the right.
I continually get emails asking for printer recommendations for use with fabric printing, and I always recommend a printer that uses pigmented ink. The above illustrates why — pigmented ink is not only water resistant, but it is UV resistant.
Backing up a bit, in 1996 I co-authored The Quilter’s Computer Companion. In the now out-of-print book, we included a chapter about printing on fabric. Then there was only dye-based inks available for use in home inkjet printers. Because I dyed fabric, we were able to figure out a recipe for making dye-based inks water resistant based on chemicals used for setting dyes. This was before Bubble Jet Set hit the market. After BJS was available, I used it rather than continue to tweak our recipe, especially with the ever changing printers and ink formulations being introduced. The problem, however, was that while BJS and pre-treated fabrics helped make dye-based inks water resistant, it didn’t make them UV resistant. I knew pigment inks were water resistant and were far more UV resistant, but when printers affordable for the home user became available, the colors weren’t as vivid as what dye-based inks could give. Thus, the solution was to get the vivid colors from dye-based ink and to use a spray for UV protection.
In 2002, that changed. Epson launched a series of printers using Ultrachrome pigmented ink. It had a color range nearly as vivid, and it was water resistant and UV resistant. When I bought the 2200 that uses Ultrachrome, I wasn’t sure if it was a good purchase, and I knew no one using that printer for fabric printing (that has certainly changed over the years). As a result, I continually experimented to find out what worked for my needs.
About a year ago I came across some of the test prints that I made in 2002 when I was comparing pigment ink prints on fabric to dye-based ink prints on fabric. I remember then when I made the prints, both sets looked very good. I also remember that the dye-based prints on some pre-treated fabrics looked a bit brighter. However, a year plus ago I came across the prints in one of my fabric bins, and I was stunned at the color shift in the dye-based inks and how much they dulled. Also eye opening was that every print made with pigment-based ink looked as good as it did when I printed them. There were no color shifts at all.
Pigmented left; dye-based on right.
The same -- pigmented left; dye-based right.
Rather than put a close-up of every set of prints, the bottom line is that the pigmented ink consistently retained its color over time. I do have notes on what fabric is what. ColorPlus (Color Textiles) gave the best result (sadly, however, that fabric is now difficult to obtain). Printed Treasures was also very good. The fabric that did the worse was treated with BJS; however, that was the original formula and it has since changed.
The good news is that dye-based inks have come a long way, and there are now dye-based inks that are UV resistant (however, most are not water resistant). Also, Epson is not the only company offering pigmented inks. All of the new Kodak printers use pigment inks, and they are very economical. Canon and HP also have printers that use pigment. When looking at those models, be sure the ink says pigment; otherwise, it’s dye based.
That being said, I continue to use Epson printers. I still have my 2200 as it is a workhorse. I’ve been recommending that printer for years, and now recommend any successor to it (such as the 2400 and 2800). I also had a Stylus Pro 7600 that prints 24″ wide, which I sold last year. My newest addition is a Stylus Pro 7900. I also have a couple small printers that use Durabrite ink. Those are everyday printers, and I also use them to print fabric labels.
My recommendations for printers: Anything that uses pigmented ink.
For a printer that prints 13″ and wider, my preference is Epson, one that uses any of the Ultrachrome ink sets. (Again, there are Canon and HP models that use pigmented ink, so you are not tied to Epson.)
For 8.5″ wide, for Epson, look for a printer that uses Durabrite ink. Note that any printer using that ink is going to create a print exactly the same as another printer using Durabrite. The difference in price is because of a faster speed or other features, such the ability to scan. Thus, if on a budget, look for anything on sale. Again, Canon and HP also make models that use pigmented ink. Also check out Kodak’s new printers. They get a very good rating, and their cartridges are larger making them more economical.
My recommendations for pretreated fabrics for use with pigmented ink:
FabriSign by Jacquard, which you can get directly from Jacquard (tell Sandy I sent you) or Dharma Trading. (Note that ProCoat is formulated for dye-based inks.) FabriSign was revamped a couple years ago, and it is far better than it was prior. I’ve been using it exclusively for anything over 8.5″ wide an am very pleased with its quality.
The other fabric I recommend is anything in the EQ Printables line. It is excellent with both pigmented and dye-based inks. I’m very happy that it is now being offered in 8.5″wide x 120″ rolls.
Since pigmented inks are water-resistant by their nature, some are surprised that I use a pretreated fabric. I do so because I often find that, depending on the image, I can get a sharper, often more vivid print. My theory is that the coating may help to prevent the ink droplets to spread a tad less which results in a sharper image. However, experimentation is always key. You may find that you can get exactly the print you desire without using pretreated fabric.
For printing on other mediums such as Lutradur or thin metals, I recommend inkAID. The white matte is washable on fabric, although it does stiffen the fabric. The clear is great on thin metals and on various weights Lutradur and Evalon.
In the future I’ll be sharing more information about printing on fabric, including some of my favorite print settings to use.
July 22nd, 2011 at 2:01 am
This is great information, Gloria!!
July 22nd, 2011 at 7:33 am
Gloria,
You’ve done it once again! — a clear, concise, AND thorough explanation about a difficult and often confusing topic. Thank you!
-Cindy
July 22nd, 2011 at 8:42 am
This post has so much information in it. It is great as it is not information that can be found in an index. Not only is the information good for fabric printing but gives some of the whys and what fors for general development of printing. Thank you for taking the time to put pen to paper.
July 22nd, 2011 at 9:08 am
Thanks Gerrie!
July 22nd, 2011 at 9:08 am
Thanks Cindy. I wrote it late at night, and during the night I kept thinking of additional info. In the future I’ll add more information I’ve learned through the school of hard knocks.
July 22nd, 2011 at 9:09 am
Susan, thanks. In the articles section, I have something I wrote some years back on inkjet printing on fabric. It also goes into some historical info (although historical seems a stretch being the technology isn’t that new ).
July 22nd, 2011 at 9:21 am
Coming from the world of watercolor, this makes so much sense. Straightforward excellent information!
Thanks.
July 22nd, 2011 at 9:32 am
thanks Willa!
July 22nd, 2011 at 11:58 am
[...] and author of Digital Essentials, Gloria Hansen, posted some really valuable information on her blog about printing on inkjet fabric. She talks about using different inks, different printers, and [...]
July 22nd, 2011 at 12:53 pm
Thanks for the indepth info Gloria. I have been using EQ printables for many years and am pleased with the results I’m seeing.
Daphne
July 22nd, 2011 at 1:43 pm
Yes, EQ fabric is excellent!
July 22nd, 2011 at 2:11 pm
Thanks Gloria–I think I’m one of those who recently emailed you with questions, about Lutradur in particular. Thanks for the info!
July 22nd, 2011 at 2:31 pm
Jenny, Did I write you back? I’m asking because someone recently wrote me. After I reply, I tend to delete the original letter (email box is loaded), and I’ve a feeling that I deleted something that I shouldn’t have. If I didn’t write you and you have any other questions, let me know. :)
July 22nd, 2011 at 7:43 pm
Thanks, this was very useful. Can’t wait to get printing
July 23rd, 2011 at 1:58 am
Thanks Lynne!
July 24th, 2011 at 10:03 am
Excellent information, Gloria. Thank you for sharing! You are very generous with sharing your knowledge and it is truly appreciated by so many of us. Thanks again.
July 24th, 2011 at 11:00 am
My pleasure, Barb. I’m glad to share it — might as well, I learned the hard way and there’s no sense in keeping it to myself. :)
July 27th, 2011 at 2:05 pm
Gloria! Thank you so much for posting this. I have been looking for a printer for several months now. With all the different components, etc. it is difficult to make a decision. Your post has helped tremendously! Thank you again.
August 2nd, 2011 at 9:17 am
Very interesting article. Do you heat set your printed fabrics at all?
August 2nd, 2011 at 10:25 am
Ann, There’s no need to heat set. Pigment ink just need to thoroughly dry. In fact, if you use heat on the image prior to it thoroughly drying, you will degrade the image. The key is to print and then leave it alone to dry. :)
August 2nd, 2011 at 3:31 pm
Any tips on how to make your own printable fabric? I’m getting married next month, so am making signature blocks for attendees to sign at the reception. I’d like to use the same fabric to print photos to use in the quilt. I’ve heard that ironing freezer paper to the fabric will help it feed through the printer, but I’m confused about what else to do to the fabric before printing. Thanks in advance for any advice.
August 2nd, 2011 at 4:35 pm
I was wondering about heat setting and note on your reply to Ann on 8/2/11 you said no need to heat set just need to thoroughly dry. About how long would it take to normally dry…..overnight, 24 hours, 1 week? I am sure it will vary depending on the image…..but a rough estimate would be helpful.
Thanks for all the good information….especially on the printers.
Thanks again,
Lynne
August 2nd, 2011 at 4:54 pm
Well this is what I thought but I got a small stain on a piece of fabric that I printed (one week earlier) and when I tried to rub the stain off some of the printed surface came off and it was ruined. It was printed on fabric usually used for dyeing with no surface treatment. I have yet to source large pieces of pre-treated fabrics here in the UK. I do use a CIS with my printer but they are supposed to be good quality inks.
August 2nd, 2011 at 5:38 pm
Susan, you can use a product like Bubble Jet Set to pretreat your fabric. However, much easier, and you’ll get excellent results, is to use EQ Printables. You can get it directly from the Electric Quilt website.
August 2nd, 2011 at 5:41 pm
Lynne, for my work, I let it sit for at least 24 hours. If I’m in a hurry, I will put the fabric into a microwave (not one used for cooking) and put it on for about 30 seconds. I may repeat it. But be careful as you don’t want to cook the fabric. :) But a day is generally fine. Even with, I don’t iron directly on the print. I put something down on my pressing surface, generally white cotton, and then I press from the back. I press down and then move the iron; I don’t do the back and forth stuff. And don’t use steam if can you help it.
August 2nd, 2011 at 5:53 pm
Do you know if the CIS ink is dye-based or pigment based? I’m going to guess dye-based. If you don’t use a pretreatment will dye-based inks, it will come off when you get water on it. In any event, I’m sorry the print was ruined. That is no fun at all.
In the UK, you can get a product called PrintAbility. Wendy Cotterill sells it directly, as I believe it’s her concoction . I bought some the last time I was in the UK, but I haven’t yet tried it. I believe it is geared towards dye-based inks rather than pigment. Even so, I’ll try anything related at least once. :)
August 3rd, 2011 at 2:21 am
Thanks, Gloria, for your responses. Actually it’s pigment inks. Printing on fabrics is something I am really interested in and I have read up as much as I can find – I have your book :). But as you well know, there is not alot out there. I checked the material I had with the supplier and discovered that it was mercerised. This may well be the problem. Pity – it prints beautifully. Back on the path of discovery…
August 3rd, 2011 at 9:18 am
Ann, you might want to try a post-print protective spray or coating. I have a coating that I admit I haven’t used called Glamour 2, a Giclee Finish, Museum Grade Matte. I understand from the company that it can be watered-down, sprayed on, and it will work on fabric. After I experiment with it, I’ll post my results.
August 3rd, 2011 at 10:08 am
Ah now, that sounds interesting. I see I can get it here in the UK although it’s quite pricey! I would imagine that it would stiffen the fabric slightly which wouldn’t really matter if I was making a bag. I might try Wendy’s concoction because my trainees often have dye printers and I have a dye inkjet printer too albeit A4.
August 3rd, 2011 at 10:49 am
Ann … Wendy showed me some of her prints, and they are very soft. There is no stiffness to the fabric like with inkAID, although inkAID will give you an excellent quality image.
August 3rd, 2011 at 12:53 pm
Actually, when I was talking about stiffness I was meaning Glamour 2..
August 3rd, 2011 at 1:02 pm
Ahh … I’m not sure about what it does to the hand of the fabric, but it can be diluted with water and spray on. But it’s an after fix. I was thinking of trying it on some of my printouts to see what it’s like. But it’s falling under the “one of these days” category. :)
August 3rd, 2011 at 11:30 pm
Thank you so much for all your work and sharing…do you know if the ink refills done by costco are dye based or pigmented…I’ll also be trying to find out…
August 4th, 2011 at 9:15 am
Maryann, Thanks. The general rule of thumb is if it doesn’t say pigment on a third-party ink, it’s dye-based. The same with HP ink (except their black is always pigment) — if it doesn’t say pigment, it’s not. :)
August 12th, 2011 at 9:59 pm
What a super review! Of course, I should blame you for letting me know I need a new printer and a few chemicals…no, wait! I LOVE any excuse to buy new toys! :-0
August 15th, 2011 at 7:43 pm
I am wondering about the color laser. I asked at my local copy ‘shop’ and he said the color is carbon based. Do you know anything about this for use on fabrics?
August 16th, 2011 at 3:57 pm
I thank you for your continued excellent information.
August 16th, 2011 at 6:10 pm
I did some prints using a laser printer some 20 years ago (black ink). I used it for labels, and they held up okay over the years. I’ve heard otherwise for color, although I’ve not worked with a color laser.
September 28th, 2011 at 3:09 pm
Cartouche Encre HP…
[...]Gloria Hansen's Blog » Blog Archive » inkjet printing on fabric recommendations and aged print comparisons.[...]…
December 2nd, 2011 at 6:02 pm
Is it ok if I quote your article in my monthly newsletter? I would think this article suits my topic perfectly. Well ya, thanks for posting this article.
December 12th, 2011 at 4:45 pm
fabulous info Gloria. I have an inexpensive Epson NX415 that uses pigmented ink and I love it, despite the fact that it seems to really be an ink-guzzler!
December 19th, 2011 at 6:52 pm
This is very helpful. Have you done any comparison with sublimation on polyester? That’s what Barb McKie does, with a heat press. Any pros/cons on that? Maybe expense? Thanks so much!
December 20th, 2011 at 9:18 am
I have done no comparisons with sublimation on poly; I have no interest in it. Sorry! Talk to Barb, as I’m sure she’ll help you. :)
February 9th, 2012 at 4:08 pm
What a great, informative article! Gloria, do you know which of the Dharma Fabrisign cotton on wide rolls would be closest to the 200 thread count regular cotton from Printed Treasures (or EQ Printables)? I’m looking for something with a smooth, tight weave that will absorb the ink well. (Not a gauzy translucent fabric, but a more solid material.) Would the high-thread count broadcloth be the equivalent?
February 10th, 2012 at 12:22 am
Thanks Debra! I believe the broadcloth would be close. If you go to injetfabrics.com, you can order samples directly from Jacquard. Or, call up Dharma and see if they have samples. Somewhere I do have a set of samples. If I can find them, I’ll write you which looks the closest.
June 11th, 2013 at 2:46 pm
I have a specific question for a project and it seems like if anyone would know the answer, it would be you, Gloria! Is there any way to print from my regular color inkjet printer on pellon and set the ink so it’s permanent? In trying it, the color and detail look great, but the ink can be rubbed off and water of course ruins it. Maybe a pretreatment or a spray after it air dries, or application of heat with my iron? Thanks for any help.
June 13th, 2013 at 1:22 pm
Alison, If you use a printer with pigment ink, the ink will be waterfast. If you use a printer with dye-based ink, then it will run when the pellon is wet. Since you say water ruins your print, then you are in all likelihood using dye-based ink. In that case, you could try presoaking the pellon with Bubble Jet Set. You could try clear inkAID on pellon. That will allow you to print with dye-based ink onto the pellon without the print later running when wet. Plus, since it is clear, you’ll still have the sheer look from the pellon. If you use white inkAID, you’ll get a more opaque look. I hope this helps.